Do Baseboards Go On Before Or After Installing Engineered Hardwood Flooring?
Tuesday, December 22nd, 2009 at
3:43 pm
My floor installer says after, my baseboard/painter says before. The floor is cement and not necessarily even. Which should I do???
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baseboards last. most engineered flooring is floating these days. that means you will have a gap between the floor and the wall so the flooring can expand and contract with temp & humidity fluctuations. the baseboards need to cover that gap.
its usually nice to paint the baseboards ahead of time, then install them, then do another touch up coat after youve puttied the nail holes.
The problem with installing baseboards first is that you don’t know the exact height they should be to sit flush with the floor. And they don’t cut the ends of the floorboards exactly even. So, they can’t just butt the floor ends up to the baseboard if it’s too low. In fact, if you already have baseboards installed in a room where they are putting the flooring in, one method of trimming up the edge of the flooring is to install a 1/4-inch round moulding that gets attached to the existing baseboard. Maybe that’s what your painter has in mind.
If you have the baseboards off now, do the floor first and then the baseboards. But, do paint them before they are cut and installed. That way all you have to do is caulk the cracks and gaps, fill in the nail holes, and do touch-up painting to complete the job.
the flooring guys are correct…….
this applies only if the baseboards are already off…..
if the baseboards are put in last this will save you money because if they are put in first you will have to put in quarter round molding to fill in the gaps……..
your painter carpenter may be saying this just as a way to make you have to pay more money………..
We just had a new home built with engineered hardwoods and the baseboards went on after with a hardwood detail board as well. Go with your floor installer.
after. you want them to sit on top of the floor.
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The best thing to do would be to spend a couple hundred bucks and pay a handyman to install new vinyl flooring for you. That would give you the best results. You will have to remove the old stuff first (the old wrinkles would show through the new vinyl). And, you could probably save some money doing that yourself.
The problem is that the old flooring will have trapped air pockets and there's no adhesive holding those raised areas down to the sub floor. If it's been like that for a while, the flooring may have deformed semi-permanently. And, even if you were to do something like poke holes in the floor to let the trapped air out and then use a syringe to inject new glue in those areas, the flooring might not ever become flat enough to look right. Plus, you'll have holes in the flooring.
Kinda tricky. But I think ultimately, it would be best painted because of the doors and trim being painted. That way, all the higher pieces are painted and the floor is the only natural wood. It would draw more attention if all the eye level pieces are NOT matching. But then nobody would have the nerve to say anything about it to you. See what I mean? Just my opinion though. It is your house. Of course you can do as you wish. Good luck in deciding your decision!
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I have a non-Sport 2007 Honda Fit with a factory radio. It has an Auxiliary-in button on the controls, but no physical aux-input (unlike the Sport, which does). How can I best get my iPod to play through my Honda stereo (with an FM Modulator as a last resort)? I went to a local stereo installation store this morning to check into installing some method of connecting an iPod to my stereo, but the only option they could find in their database of compatible systems costs $179! And this doesn’t consider the cost of labor! I also have an after-market XM satellite radio box that is hard-wired via FM Modulator directly to the antenna (I think that’s how it goes) so an iPod FM Modulator box might not work, and in my experience, they’re lousy quality anyway (I had bought a cheap one previously, and you had to place it in a certain position or else the static was unbearable). So, please, wise hive-mind… does anyone have any suggestions? Is there a workaround for the auxiliary input conundrum?…
Gomez
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Having just done this, I think I can answer. All you really need, if you don't have it already, is a small pry bar. Scoring the paint (possibly caulk) at the edge of the wood before prying will prevent a lot of the paint from peeling off. Start at one end and with the pry bar pull the baseboard out a *little* bit, then move to the next round of nails and pull those out a bit, and so on, until the baseboard starts to come away from the wall by itself. Go back to the beginning and take the moulding out a little more, once you have a good start, and repeat until your nails are all the way out. Wood will bend, but only so far, so take it easy, and if you think you're about to break it, move to the next nail and loosen that one a bit. What I found is that some nails were still sticking partially in the wall up until the end, and then the whole thing kind of popped off the wall at once. I had solid 6" moulding on 16' walls, and didn't break one board. Good luck!
I don't normally say this but. If I were you I would be on the phone calling in General Contractors to today. at least 3
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One thing that is a drawback to this type of flooring is if it gets damaged, the whole thing has to get replaced. Special precautions such as making sure your kitchen chairs and table have good pads on the bottoms of the legs. I prefer rubber so the chairs will not slide and marr of tear the vinyl. The vinyl will wear quicker by the doors. It you have tile, if there is a problem you just replace the individual tile.
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Every cell has a special combination of sugars and proteins on its exterior called the major histo-compatibility complex , this complex is what identifies cells as "friendly" and tells the immune system not to attack it. When we supply insulin to diabetics (both type I and II) we need to ensure that the immune system recognizes it as friendly otherwise the immune system will attack it and degrade it.
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The only minus was…It was too short xD
u need a wiring harness and a faceplate if u want it to look good… but if you dont know what your doing go to a place that does it and buy it from them and they'll hook you up with cheaper install usually if u buy it from them…
Gym mats work great!!! I put gym mats on entire floor under a set of drums and it does help with reverb so Im sure it will help with happy feet
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A mask is a selection that lets you isolate a subject or specific area of your photo. It’s analogous to using masking tape to cover your baseboards before you…
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No wifi at the ACS? Sorry?
No you don't have to have an interview with the law schools. The only prominent law school that I can think of that encourages interviews is Northwestern School of Law. It is optional, but it is necessary (in real life) to get into the school. Further, I have heard of some deans of admissions calling students that were "on the fence." Sometimes this put them over the top, or they received a rejection letter in the next couple of days. I provided some useful websites for you.
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Kevin Rudd COCKSUCKER
Nothing says a fun evening like installing an over the range hood.
You could try putting some sort of barrier between the base boards and the rabbit..
Things like these work well..
Those are actually what my rabbits cage is made out of.. About 4 packs of those. :]
Just attach them all and put them in front of the wall in a way that he can't squish behind to get at the baseboards and make sure it's secured in place or they'll fall forward..
Hope I helped.
Paint them the same as your walls so that your Furniture will POP in the room…after all you want people to notice your furniture not your baseboards.
I saw that, Rodfather. It reminded me of the discussion between you, Akiva, and myself on another thread where Akiva declared he would buy only the Wi-Fi version because that’s all he needed.
Just a little Vinegar and Water
I recently had a Shaw laminate floor installed in my kitchen. I called their customer service representative to ask the best way to clean their flooring. She told me to use 1/4 cup of vinegar and put it in a 30 to 32 ounce empty spray bottle filled with plain water. I purchased a terry mop cover that has elastic all around it from Home Depot, which I dampen with water and place on a Swiffer dry mop head. I then spray the floor (a small area at a time) with the vinegar/water solution and then wipe it up with the damp terry mop. It does a good job. There is no streaking, and you are using very little water on the floor. One company has come out with wet cloths to attach to Swiffer mops that contain vinegar and water, which I also plan to purchase and try.
Make Cleaner at Home
To make laminate floor cleaner, mix 1/3 white vinegar, 1/3 rubbing alcohol, 1/3 water, and 3 drops dishwashing liquid for a quart total. For best results, wipe off quickly.
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Do NOT fill the gaps between the sheets of plywood! These need to be there to allow for wood expansion. In fact, if you don't have those gaps, run a circular saw, set at 3/4", down all the joints to open them up. With out this gap, if the plywood swells, it will buckle up at the joints.
Voids in the subfloor like knot holes in the top ply aren't an issue. But dips and high spots are an issue. Make sure all the nail heads are flush (and add deck screws if there are any loose spots).
Your flooring instructions should list the maximum dip/rise in a given run. If you've got low spots carpenter didn't crown all the joists), you can cut pieces of roofing felt to fill in the void. If it takes several layers, "feather" them with progressively larger pieces, just like you'd feather a drywall joint. High spots can be taken down with a grinder or belt sander with 40 grit paper
If you've got a floor with a lot of dips and rises, you can use a self leveling cement to bring it level. It's very thin, like a runny milkshake, and you spread a thin layer with a large floor squeegee. It's thin enough that it finds it's own level, puddling in the low spots. This is typically only needed for tile, but you could do it for wood/laminate.over a really bad subfloor
very very good job
buckling down today, sanding baseboards, finishing spare room, moving computers & setting up new table